LakshmiNew year means new fashion. And nothing is sexier than a guy in a suit. Da Vinci referred to Milan as the ‘Capital of Fashion Capitals’ and last week saw the city turn once again into the sartorial hub it is known for. From January 12-16, the fashion world showcased the latest trends for men and keep reading for my favourite collections!
The advertising campaign for MFW. Photo: CNMI
The highlight of the first day was Gucci, with all eyes set on the new Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno, who presented a more approachable vision for menswear, modernizing basic wardrobe pieces with subtle modifications. He turned to the street’s diversity to find a collection that balanced realism and glitz; items ranged from opulent takes on sweatshirts, tank tops, and jeans to dresses with crystal baby dolls and outerwear embellished with strings of shimmering tassels. Oversized silk ties, and bursts of crystal embellishment in the form of necklaces met with long overcoats and Gucci-adorned bomber jackets. A collection infused with a breezy sensualism, the front row featured celebrities like Idris Elba, Marc Fornè, Mayao, George Barnett, Nikolai von Bismarck and Clement Chabernaud, among others.
Models walk the runway at the Gucci collection show during the MFW. Photo: AFP; Reuters/ Daniele Mascolo
The second day saw a persuasive look at elegance predominating men’s fashion as Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Emporio Armani presented their collections. Dolce & Gabbana, attempting to salvage their past glory, focused on an atmosphere of minimalism, signifying the blending of impeccable style with alluring seductiveness. Silk and satin shirting, high-necks, neckline bows, riffed tuxedos and sleeveless alternatives were the top features of D&G’s collection. Perhaps channelling a bit of the style at equestrian events, there were instances of jodhpur-style trousers coupled with riding boots. The classy denim look-jeans and jackets struck the casual chord.
For Silvia Venturini Fendi’s latest menswear collection for Fendi, the collection channelled a British royal charm with wax cotton jackets, a pleated kilt that turned into a long short culotte style, and a variety of plaids throughout. However, there was also the peculiar vibe inclined to Princess Anne’s style of futuristic sunglasses paired with typical British outfits. The designer said it was a mode of “Roman Decadence”., referring to the origin of the House of Fendi.
A model walks the runway for Fendi. Photo: AFP
As Van Gogh once said, “The heart of man is very much like the sea, it has its storms, it has its tides and in its depths it has its pearls too”. Emporio Armani, took this literally into consideration with a collection seeming more like a tribute to the sailors out on the unrestrained sea, albeit, in winter. As the lights went on at Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Teatro, you could see a massive lighthouse with a revolving lamp, shedding light over the guests. Anchored nautically, the collection featured several outfits similar to those worn by good ole (extremely stylish) sailors, cabin boys, officers and engineers. Think sailor hats, shirts, brogan-fashioned boots and gloves, a harbourfront decorous version meets the luxuriousness associated with the label.
Designer Giorgio Armani accepts applause after the conclusion of his presentation. Photo: AP Photo/Antonio Calanni
The highlights of the third day included the collections presented by Prada and JW Anderson. Prada’s runway invitation was a gigantic book, with a silk tie sheathed in a photo of an enchanting forest. Prada, an expert craftsman, attempts to outdo their collection in every single show. This time was no exception as even by the exceptionally high standards of long-time Prada collaborator Rem Koolhaas- the Dutch architect behind the physical Prada-verse, the installation beneath a glass walkway in the Fondazione Prada auditorium featured a mossy forest floor, complete with ferns and a bubbling stream. The Jurassic Park-like vibe made singer and big-time Prada fan, Troye Sivan exclaim “Unbelievable!”. A handful of trench coats with hood attachments akin to balaclavas, open to the suit and tied underneath but securely fastened at the neck with scarves, were seen on some of the models. An autumn afternoon look was created by layering contrasting sweaters with resplendent cardigans. The runway also featured tweed trousers, barn jackets and knit johns in Prada-like colours.
Models on the runway for Prada. Photo: AP/Wirelmage
A new entry that had a scintillating runway mode, was the presentation by JW Anderson, who took inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut” to create a “Weird and perversely domestic, plush and padded, everything is off,” kind of environment. Designer Jonathan Anderson commented, “I became obsessed with Christine Kubrick and how she painted most of the artworks in her husband’s film.” After connecting with her, he went on to experiment with this collection depicting flamboyance at its finest with satin and velvet encompassed in the form of oversized blazers, sweaters and trousers. Anderson’s masculine styles frequently opted for a pant-less finish, favouring elegant hosiery over boxers. “Tights offer such an amazing second skin, and they can become a kink,” Anderson explained. “For me, it had to be a subversive act. It’s like edging.”
The models for the the JW Anderson collection at MFW. Photo: BNNBreaking
And that’s all about Milan. If you love fashion the way I do, don’t you worry- Ciao, Milan means Bonjour, Paris!
Lakshmi
