LakshmiWho knew that the Roman son of an Alitalia technician and a movie executive’s assistant would become the creative director of Maison Valentino?
After completing his studies at Accademia di Costume e di Moda in Rome, Alessandro Michele worked with an Italian knitwear firm, before joining Fendi. His fate was sealed as he was promoted quickly and spotted by Tom Ford, the then creative director of Gucci, who invited him to work at the London-based design office. Originally, in charge of the company’s leather goods, he rose in ranks.
For the January 2015 menswear show, Marco Bizzarri requested Alessandro Michele to serve as temporary creative designer, providing him a week to revamp Frida Giannini’s initial designs. Michele accepted the challenge and introduced a “new Gucci: nonconformist, romantic, intellectual”. Alessandro Michele was named creative director of Gucci by Kering two days later with the intention of modernizing the brand’s image in the face of declining sales.
With an outstanding repertoire during his time at Gucci, it came as a surprise to the fashion community when he was announced as the creative director of Maison Valentino following the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli earlier this year.
Michele had essentially already played his card when his impromptu resort collection was announced in June 2024.
The Dojo de Paris arena was dimly lit and featured bird cages, ancient relics and white fabric. With Elton John, his husband David Furnish, Salma Hayek and Harry Styles in the front row, this collection was destined for Valentino’s latest triumph under the new directorship of Michele. “Passacaglia della Vita” played in the background, to signify the finality of human life, as Michele told Harper’s Bazaar in an exclusive interview.
The show was also attended by Asian stars including Korean actress/singer Im Yoon Ah, Thai model/actress Freen Sarocha, Thai singer/actor Jeff Satur and Chinese actress/singer Guan Xiaotong.
Numerous vital elements of his Valentino vision were present, including brand symbols like ruffles and the iconic V emblem, as well as allusions to hipster ensembles and bourgeois elegance from the 1970s and 1980s. The spotlight was on polka dots, a spring addition- a Valentino signature that Michele had not previously mined.
His collection was an amalgamation of founder Valentino Garavani’s repertoire from past archives and his own inspiration from his Baroque and Renaissance era featured collections at Gucci. Red stockings (Valentino’s signature shade), a fitted tuxedo tea dress with delicate lace gloves, sequined jackets with trim tailoring fastened with satin bows, exquisite dinner jackets and a classic ruffled black collar cream dress were showcased on the runway.
As all eyes were on Valentino’s packed show at the fashion week the Gen-Z models with crystal nose rings and other such facial piercings, walked the runway in outfits screaming imperial indulgence. Swarovski crystal-embellished trailing chiffon gowns, retro hippy chic jackets and baby doll minidresses embraced the runway.
Michele created a universe of his own through the chic chaos of sensual radicalism in his Valentino debut. And, somehow it worked wonders.
Probably one of my favourite collections from PFW this year, which is why I thought it’d be a nice idea to dedicate a whole article as a tribute to Maison Valentino and their ingenious creative director, Alessandro Michele!
Merci beaucoup Alessandro et Valentino! J’ai hâte de voir ce que l’avenir vous réserve !
Lakshmi
